In the dark, all that can be seen are the whites of their eyes.
Gradually they emerge from the blackness, an entire retinue of fanged demons, holding weapons of war, clothed in the skins of wild animals, and crowned with human heads. In the flickering light of the gönkhang in Galingteng, these wrathful protectors appear to dance along the black walls, still inspiring fear and reverence centuries after they were painted.
Galingteng lies just outside Derge Town, in Kardze Prefecture in the historic region of Kham. The small village is bisected by a river that winds it way out...read more
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
I remember the first time I spoke to Gene Smith on the telephone. It was 1996 and I was in the office kitchen. He was the one–everybody said so. He was the one to get Trace... read more
